From Riga to the Baltic Coast

Any tour going west from the capital takes you to a doubly rewarding experience. Castles and picturesque small towns evoke both medieval origins and times when the 17th century Dukedom of Kurzeme was so prosperous that it acquired colonies in the Gambia and Tobao.

The Abavariver valley is a noted conservation area, while along the Baltic coast dunes you'll find long beaches, pine forests and small nature reserves. And all these are within four hours drive of Riga.

TUKUMS AND THE ABAVA RIVER

The attractive old town of Tukums, with its ancient castle tower and handsome manor houses, is a good base for expeditions. The magnificent Livonian castle of Jaunpils is only 25km away, while to the west a beautiful stretch of the Abava river flows through hills between Kandava and Sabile, offering excellent scope for hiking, boating and riding. The area is ablaze with flowers in early summer. Sabile itself is a cobble-stoned town with a rare distinction. It has the world's northernmost vineyards, planted by Duke Jacob of Kurzeme and still producing.

KULDIGA REGION

Kuldiga, overlooking the waterfall on the wide Venta river, became a Hanseatic City in 1368 and was briefly the capital of Kurzeme Duchy. Not surprisingly, it is full of interesting old buildings, especially wooden ones, while as a modern regional centre it boasts open air markets, hotels and rapidly improving tourist facilities. The nearby Riezupes labyrinth of man-made sandstone caves, extending two km is a "must" to visit. Further off, to the north, is lake Usmas, a great spot for fishing and yachting.

AN UNSPOILT COAST

Not far west of Kuldiga are the beaches of the Baltic coast, kept undeveloped because the area used to be a Soviet military zone. Head for the coast road between Pavilosta and Jurkalne to find some of the best beaches, while just south of Pavilosta is the Grini nature reserve. All around here you can explore dunes, woodlands and lakes and there are often camp sites. Or venture south of the port city of Liepaja - itself a useful base - to the Nica area, known for 32km of white sand beaches and for its traditional Latvian costumes. Another possibility is to base yourself at Ventspils and explore north to the Slitere reserve and Kolka Horn. Whichever you do, you'll wish you had more time.

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